If your dog is going to live inside the home, you are going to have to go through the housebreaking process unless you have grossly different hygienic standards than most. It is not hard, it need not be messy, and it need not be a struggle. It does not have to take a long time. Remember that it is a training issue and you will need to have more than casual input. It will take some of your time but the more involved you get, the shorter that span will be. When it comes to potty training your puppy, there are two very important rules that you have to follow to be successful.
Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule - If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!
Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right - let them know!
There are three methods to potty train your new puppy.
Method Number One - Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2). When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.
Method Number Two - Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances. During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time. Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on. Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does. Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.
Method Number Three - Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.
Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. I believe this is much better. Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.
When an 'accident' happens
One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it. Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor. Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act. The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more. They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog." In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy's intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom. We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog. If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy.
Feeding and house training
The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns. All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.
Spontaneous or submissive urination
Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.
Summary
Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.
By Jacqeus Janse van Rensburg
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Puppy Training, A Positive Introduction To Basic Obedience Exercises
Learning How to Learn
Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doing some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.
The goal for this puppy work is not that the pup learns the individual exercises, nor is it reliability of obedience to command. Rather, the goal is to have fun with your pup, jumpstart the learning process and to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.
Don’t fret if you don’t teach all the commands—doing any puppy work is better than none. While you are engaged in puppy training you are building a relationship with him. He learns to enjoy working with you as he learns about you.
The great majority of puppy training and raising should emphasize positive interaction. However, your pup does need to learn some manners. He should learn early that there are some things he must not do. There are two reasons for this: 1) so you can stand to live with him, and 2) so that he learns to accept correction and parameters to behavior.
The very short list of Don’ts includes:
Don’t bite humans
Don’t jump on humans
Don’t chew on furniture
House breaking is better taught as a do rather than a don’t. Teach your pup to do his business outside; try to avoid correction for going inside. Get a copy of “Eliminate on Command” by Dr. M.L. Smith. It’s available on line at:
www.eliminateoncommand.com.
Pups have a short attention span, so keep lessons brief and emphasize action commands. These are commands your pup can complete quickly such as sit, here, and finish to heel. Save the long stays and long heeling sessions for later when his attention is sufficiently developed to stay focused longer.
Puppies learn exactly the same way as grown dogs (and people):
A pup acts.
He experiences the result of his action.
He makes a connection in his mind between his action and the results, creating a memory.
If the result is desirable he is more likely to repeat that action in the future.
If the result is undesirable he is less likely to repeat that action in the future.
Treat Training
Food is a good motivator for puppy training but a weak motivator for grown dogs.
Motivational training is only part of a complete training program. In the end we want a dog that will obey commands, not simply respond to cues when there is nothing he’d rather do. While the principles espoused here and the benefits of puppy training will be an asset to your dog throughout his life, treat training cannot substitute for a formal training program for grown dogs.
We will use food initially both to lure the pup into the action we want and as a reward for the desired action. When he knows the action we will put a cue to the action. When he will perform the action on cue, stop luring but continue to reward with food. After the dog is regularly performing correctly on cue, gradually reduce the frequency of the food reward. At first you are rewarding every correct response, and then go to every other response and then reward on an intermittent schedule. This is an important process—you do not want your dog to be dependant on the food lure, nor do you want him to be tied to a treat for every correct response. When you are rewarding intermittently he never knows which response will bring the treat so he will continue to work hard, hoping that each time may be the time.
Start in a quiet room. I like doing the puppy training first thing in the morning before the pup’s first meal—the pup is fresh, excited to start the day, and hungry! You also don’t want to compete with the other dogs or people in the home for the pup’s attention.
You need a hungry pup and healthy treats that the pup can chew and swallow quickly. All-beef hot dogs cut to puppy-sized bites work well for most pups, although I use regular kibble for some chow hounds.
Sit in Front
Sit or squat on the floor with your legs or knees forming a V in front. This helps funnel the pup to the proper front alignment.
Hold a treat in one hand out in front of you a little above the puppy's head level. When your pup notices the treat, raise the treat close to and over his head. He should sit, when he does, verbally praise and pet him and then give him the treat. If the pup stands up to wrestle the treat from you, twist your hand to protect the treat and prevent him from hanging on your hand. When he sits give him the treat.
Don’t worry if he jumps up as soon as he gets the treat; you’re only concerned with teaching sit, not stay.
Pause a moment and then repeat. After a few repetitions your pup will be sitting quickly to get his treat. Now let’s put a cue or command to that action. From here on say “sit” as you start the hand movement and just before the pup sits. Continue to praise, pet and treat him when he sits.
As soon as your pup is sitting, begin to work toward the perfect sit. You want to end up with straight sits, not flopped over on one hip. You want the pup in front and aligned facing you correctly.
When you have practiced this for a session or two wean him off the food lure. Without holding the treat out in front of him say “sit” and then verbally praise, pet and food reward him when he does.
After a few sessions begin to wean off treating the pup for every proper response, but continue to praise and pet him every time he sits on cue.
Go out and Here--- Dixie Cup Lining Drills
One of the easiest ways to teach your pup to come when you call him is to teach him to go away from you. Hold your pup and making sure he is watching, place a treat on top of a white eight ounce or larger Dixie cup. Put the pup down about five inches from the cup and let him go. After he eats the treat call him to sit in front. Praise, pet and treat for every recall at first.
Do several of these. When your pup is going straight to the treat and is sure of the location, begin to place the treat and then still holding the pup, back away, only a foot or so at first. After you have backed up, hold the pup in front of you to show him the cup and then set him down and release him to get his treat. This sequence will become a pattern and a useful cue for him when you start lining him longer distances. After he eats his cup treat call him "Here" and praise, pet and treat (PPT) him for the sit in front. As you increase the distance, begin to reward intermittently on the return, but continue to praise and pet him heartily on every return.
Be sure to gradually increase the distance you are sending your pup. As long as your pup is running straight to the cup and is not loosing focus on the task keep increasing the distances you back away.
Kennel
I teach grown dogs to go to a place board, half-crate, or pre-identified area on command. I use the command "Kennel" some like to use "Place." This serves to balance e-collar pressures because the action requires your dog to move away from you rather than toward you on command. This “kennel” command is also useful for loading a dog into boats, blinds, and crates. With grown dogs we will do initial force on casts using this command and introductory work on jumps. This is a versatile command.
You can begin work on the kennel command once your pup knows sit. Use a place board about 12” x 12” and 2” high. Your pup will outgrow several puppy place boards so don’t make them too fancy—I bet an old college text book will do to start.
Use a treat to lure him on the board. When he climbs up on the place board or kennel give him the treat. Pause and allow him to explore and then climb off. Repeat.
When your pup is readily climbing up on the board you are ready to add a cue to the action. Say “kennel” just as he begins to climb up.
Begin to tell your pup to sit when he is on the place board. He has enough success now that you can stop giving the treat for climbing up and only treat for the sit when he is up. Very quickly you should be able to drop the sit command and his “kennel” will mean kennel up and sit.
Call him off the place board to sit in front of you near the board and then cast him to kennel again.
When your pup is responding quickly and reliably to your kennel command you can start gradually backing farther away from your place board. To make it easier for your pup walk toward the place board as you cast and cue him to "kennel."
Introduce Jumps and Avoidable Hazards
Once your pup is very comfortable on his kennel command and is lining out to the visible Dixie cups well you are ready to combine the two responses and introduce your pup to jumps. Start with a kennel close to you. Place your treat on the Dixie cup and back up. Hold your pup with the kennel just in front of you and between you and the Dixie cup. Release him to get his treat he should line right over the kennel to the cup and come back over the kennel on the return.
With practice you can increase the distance between you and the kennel and between the kennel and the Dixie cup. Practicing success at short distances is better for your pup than pushing to increase the distance too fast and teaching him to run around the kennel.
In Summary
Your pup is only a pup for a very short time; don't expect him to act or train like a grown dog. In addition to training, spend time with him just going for walks and let him run, jump and play.
In all your puppy training remember your goals:
Have fun with your pup
You want your pup to learn how to learn.
You want to jumpstart the learning process.
You want to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.
Enjoy!
Pat Nolan, http://www.ponderosakennels.com, has trained dogs professionally since 1975. His broad background in training and handling a variety of animals and his foundation in obedience have instilled in him a lifelong passion for learning, and for acquiring and using the most efficient and effective training techniques.
Pat lives with his wife Cynde, five children, and a grandson in Western Maryland, where he trains year-round. He has traveled and competed from northern Florida to northern Ontario. For many years, his family traveled with him, spending winters in South Carolina and summers in Canada and Vermont. Pat retired from competing in retriever field trials in 1999.
Pat continually strives to find new and better ways to present information. He is particularly interested in ways to motivate an animal’s desire to learn. This approach underpins his successful work with dogs and is Pat’s stock in trade.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pat_Nolan
Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doing some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.
The goal for this puppy work is not that the pup learns the individual exercises, nor is it reliability of obedience to command. Rather, the goal is to have fun with your pup, jumpstart the learning process and to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.
Don’t fret if you don’t teach all the commands—doing any puppy work is better than none. While you are engaged in puppy training you are building a relationship with him. He learns to enjoy working with you as he learns about you.
The great majority of puppy training and raising should emphasize positive interaction. However, your pup does need to learn some manners. He should learn early that there are some things he must not do. There are two reasons for this: 1) so you can stand to live with him, and 2) so that he learns to accept correction and parameters to behavior.
The very short list of Don’ts includes:
Don’t bite humans
Don’t jump on humans
Don’t chew on furniture
House breaking is better taught as a do rather than a don’t. Teach your pup to do his business outside; try to avoid correction for going inside. Get a copy of “Eliminate on Command” by Dr. M.L. Smith. It’s available on line at:
www.eliminateoncommand.com.
Pups have a short attention span, so keep lessons brief and emphasize action commands. These are commands your pup can complete quickly such as sit, here, and finish to heel. Save the long stays and long heeling sessions for later when his attention is sufficiently developed to stay focused longer.
Puppies learn exactly the same way as grown dogs (and people):
A pup acts.
He experiences the result of his action.
He makes a connection in his mind between his action and the results, creating a memory.
If the result is desirable he is more likely to repeat that action in the future.
If the result is undesirable he is less likely to repeat that action in the future.
Treat Training
Food is a good motivator for puppy training but a weak motivator for grown dogs.
Motivational training is only part of a complete training program. In the end we want a dog that will obey commands, not simply respond to cues when there is nothing he’d rather do. While the principles espoused here and the benefits of puppy training will be an asset to your dog throughout his life, treat training cannot substitute for a formal training program for grown dogs.
We will use food initially both to lure the pup into the action we want and as a reward for the desired action. When he knows the action we will put a cue to the action. When he will perform the action on cue, stop luring but continue to reward with food. After the dog is regularly performing correctly on cue, gradually reduce the frequency of the food reward. At first you are rewarding every correct response, and then go to every other response and then reward on an intermittent schedule. This is an important process—you do not want your dog to be dependant on the food lure, nor do you want him to be tied to a treat for every correct response. When you are rewarding intermittently he never knows which response will bring the treat so he will continue to work hard, hoping that each time may be the time.
Start in a quiet room. I like doing the puppy training first thing in the morning before the pup’s first meal—the pup is fresh, excited to start the day, and hungry! You also don’t want to compete with the other dogs or people in the home for the pup’s attention.
You need a hungry pup and healthy treats that the pup can chew and swallow quickly. All-beef hot dogs cut to puppy-sized bites work well for most pups, although I use regular kibble for some chow hounds.
Sit in Front
Sit or squat on the floor with your legs or knees forming a V in front. This helps funnel the pup to the proper front alignment.
Hold a treat in one hand out in front of you a little above the puppy's head level. When your pup notices the treat, raise the treat close to and over his head. He should sit, when he does, verbally praise and pet him and then give him the treat. If the pup stands up to wrestle the treat from you, twist your hand to protect the treat and prevent him from hanging on your hand. When he sits give him the treat.
Don’t worry if he jumps up as soon as he gets the treat; you’re only concerned with teaching sit, not stay.
Pause a moment and then repeat. After a few repetitions your pup will be sitting quickly to get his treat. Now let’s put a cue or command to that action. From here on say “sit” as you start the hand movement and just before the pup sits. Continue to praise, pet and treat him when he sits.
As soon as your pup is sitting, begin to work toward the perfect sit. You want to end up with straight sits, not flopped over on one hip. You want the pup in front and aligned facing you correctly.
When you have practiced this for a session or two wean him off the food lure. Without holding the treat out in front of him say “sit” and then verbally praise, pet and food reward him when he does.
After a few sessions begin to wean off treating the pup for every proper response, but continue to praise and pet him every time he sits on cue.
Go out and Here--- Dixie Cup Lining Drills
One of the easiest ways to teach your pup to come when you call him is to teach him to go away from you. Hold your pup and making sure he is watching, place a treat on top of a white eight ounce or larger Dixie cup. Put the pup down about five inches from the cup and let him go. After he eats the treat call him to sit in front. Praise, pet and treat for every recall at first.
Do several of these. When your pup is going straight to the treat and is sure of the location, begin to place the treat and then still holding the pup, back away, only a foot or so at first. After you have backed up, hold the pup in front of you to show him the cup and then set him down and release him to get his treat. This sequence will become a pattern and a useful cue for him when you start lining him longer distances. After he eats his cup treat call him "Here" and praise, pet and treat (PPT) him for the sit in front. As you increase the distance, begin to reward intermittently on the return, but continue to praise and pet him heartily on every return.
Be sure to gradually increase the distance you are sending your pup. As long as your pup is running straight to the cup and is not loosing focus on the task keep increasing the distances you back away.
Kennel
I teach grown dogs to go to a place board, half-crate, or pre-identified area on command. I use the command "Kennel" some like to use "Place." This serves to balance e-collar pressures because the action requires your dog to move away from you rather than toward you on command. This “kennel” command is also useful for loading a dog into boats, blinds, and crates. With grown dogs we will do initial force on casts using this command and introductory work on jumps. This is a versatile command.
You can begin work on the kennel command once your pup knows sit. Use a place board about 12” x 12” and 2” high. Your pup will outgrow several puppy place boards so don’t make them too fancy—I bet an old college text book will do to start.
Use a treat to lure him on the board. When he climbs up on the place board or kennel give him the treat. Pause and allow him to explore and then climb off. Repeat.
When your pup is readily climbing up on the board you are ready to add a cue to the action. Say “kennel” just as he begins to climb up.
Begin to tell your pup to sit when he is on the place board. He has enough success now that you can stop giving the treat for climbing up and only treat for the sit when he is up. Very quickly you should be able to drop the sit command and his “kennel” will mean kennel up and sit.
Call him off the place board to sit in front of you near the board and then cast him to kennel again.
When your pup is responding quickly and reliably to your kennel command you can start gradually backing farther away from your place board. To make it easier for your pup walk toward the place board as you cast and cue him to "kennel."
Introduce Jumps and Avoidable Hazards
Once your pup is very comfortable on his kennel command and is lining out to the visible Dixie cups well you are ready to combine the two responses and introduce your pup to jumps. Start with a kennel close to you. Place your treat on the Dixie cup and back up. Hold your pup with the kennel just in front of you and between you and the Dixie cup. Release him to get his treat he should line right over the kennel to the cup and come back over the kennel on the return.
With practice you can increase the distance between you and the kennel and between the kennel and the Dixie cup. Practicing success at short distances is better for your pup than pushing to increase the distance too fast and teaching him to run around the kennel.
In Summary
Your pup is only a pup for a very short time; don't expect him to act or train like a grown dog. In addition to training, spend time with him just going for walks and let him run, jump and play.
In all your puppy training remember your goals:
Have fun with your pup
You want your pup to learn how to learn.
You want to jumpstart the learning process.
You want to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.
Enjoy!
Pat Nolan, http://www.ponderosakennels.com, has trained dogs professionally since 1975. His broad background in training and handling a variety of animals and his foundation in obedience have instilled in him a lifelong passion for learning, and for acquiring and using the most efficient and effective training techniques.
Pat lives with his wife Cynde, five children, and a grandson in Western Maryland, where he trains year-round. He has traveled and competed from northern Florida to northern Ontario. For many years, his family traveled with him, spending winters in South Carolina and summers in Canada and Vermont. Pat retired from competing in retriever field trials in 1999.
Pat continually strives to find new and better ways to present information. He is particularly interested in ways to motivate an animal’s desire to learn. This approach underpins his successful work with dogs and is Pat’s stock in trade.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pat_Nolan
Puppy Training Tips for the First Week
Bringing home a puppy and introducing her to your home is very exciting for everyone. The only one who may be anxious about the situation will be the puppy. If you handle your puppy properly when she arrives, she will quickly relax and want to settle into her new home.
Prior to bringing your new puppy into your home, you should puppy proof it. Take a look at your home from the puppy's viewpoint. Does that potted plant sitting in front of the glass door look tempting? You may want to consider moving it to a higher place. What about your favorite collection of teddy bears, or magazines you have in a basket by the sofa? They will most certainly raise the curiosity of your new puppy. As you move these things out of your puppy's reach, remember it is only for a short time. Once your new puppy has learned her place in the family, you can put your things back where they go. Your life should never be dictated by your puppy. However, by removing these curiosity objects from the start, it will allow you to work with your puppy on the basic training she will need to learn.
It is important to understand that as much as you want your new puppy to be a part of your family, your puppy is still an animal. She will take her cues from her environment. If she is allowed to have free run of the home and access to everything, you are teaching her that she is in charge. Dogs have instincts. The main instinct of dogs is to live in a pack. Your new puppy will assume her new family is her pack. If she picks up the clues that she is her own boss and she can do what she wants, whenever she wants, she is being taught she is the leader of her pack. It is much easier on everyone, including the dog, if she learns from the moment she enters the home that she is not the leader and dictator of the family.
One mistake people make is letting their puppy sleep in a utility room, or kitchen. Dogs are from the wolf family, and really prefer to have a den all their own. Some people assume placing a dog in a crate is cruel. On the contrary, if crates are introduced properly, they will be much loved by the puppy. When planning for a new puppy, do not go out and buy the biggest crate you can find for your puppy thinking she will grow into it. This is the worst mistake owner's make. A crate should be large enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Puppies usually learn from their mothers to not soil in their bed area. If the crate is too large, your puppy may designate a portion of her crate for sleeping, and the other half for soiling. You should also never place your puppy's food and water in her crate.
When your puppy is first introduced to the crate, do not simply put her inside and lock the door. This will greatly disturb her. (You should place the crate in a room in your home where the family gathers. You should not expect the puppy to walk through the entire house to the back guest bedroom to nap. By having the crate in close proximity to the family, the puppy will feel as if she is still hanging out with her pack, even if she is inside her crate sleeping.) Place the crate where it will stay, and simply open the door. You can place a towel in the bottom, and a chew toy inside if you want. Some puppy's are very curious. They will simply walk inside. Others may be a little more shy with the crate. Give your puppy time to warm up to the crate. Once she does enter the crate, praise her. You may want to give her crate a name. When she enters the crate, you can repeat the crates name, and give her a treat.
After your puppy has warmed up to her crate and has entered and exited it a few times, you can close the door. She may whine and paw at the door. She may even start yelping and barking. This is okay. Do not let her out. After about ten minutes, you can open the door and pick her up. Walk her directly to the area designated for pottying. You should never let your puppy out of her crate and allow her to follow you through the house to go outside. Most puppies will simply squat and go where they please. Once you are outside, set her down. You would then encourage her to potty. Choose a couple of words such as, "Go potty," of "Do your business." She will not have a clue as to what you are saying, at first. But, after repeated attempts and with being given a puppy treat and praise, she will learn what those words mean. Most puppies will need to go out at least every hour during the first few days to familiarize them with their potty area. This is a chance for you to catch them doing their business where they need to. Lavish them with praise.
The first few nights may make you wonder why you even brought the puppy home. The repeated yelping and whining coming from the crate can seriously upset many adults who need their sleep. You should look at your new puppy as the baby in the family. Puppies less than four months of age may need to go out once during the night. When she does, pick up your pup and take her to her designated spot. After she has relieved herself, place her promptly back into the crate. You should never play with your puppy during the night time hours. This will only encourage her to keep the yelping up. After a few days, your puppy will adjust to the night time patterns of her "pack" and everyone will get more rest. Most dogs are able to make it through the entire night without a potty break around 18 weeks.
Some individuals may think it is harsh to scold a puppy. These individuals may be the same people who have a dog running wild in their home within a year. Dogs which aren't disciplined can wreck havoc on a home. You may return to find a shredded couch, chewed up shoes, and garbage strewn all over the place. If there are other pets in the home, you should also consider their feelings. They will most likely be intimidated by such a tyrant, and fights could commence while you are away.
If you catch your puppy chewing on something she shouldn't, a firm "no" is usually enough to stop her antics. As with other forms of training, this may take a few days for her to learn. This is why you were advised to move precious things away. Some people have a rolled up newspaper to swat the puppy with if they refuse to heed a "no." The rolled up newspaper does not hurt. It is simply loud, and it teaches the dog you are the alpha in the family, and not her. If she were truly in a dog pack, her alpha would nip her soundly. So, don't feel as if you are mistreating her. In fact, most puppies seem to feel more secure when they know their place.
The most important thing you can do with your puppy besides introducing a crate immediately, instilling a potty routine, and teaching her what "no" means, is to build the relationship with your new puppy. Get on the floor and play with her. The bond will grow between you and she will love you. This will make your puppy want to please you and be obedient as well. This goes a long way when you start teaching her other basic commands such as "stay" and "come."
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ian_White
Prior to bringing your new puppy into your home, you should puppy proof it. Take a look at your home from the puppy's viewpoint. Does that potted plant sitting in front of the glass door look tempting? You may want to consider moving it to a higher place. What about your favorite collection of teddy bears, or magazines you have in a basket by the sofa? They will most certainly raise the curiosity of your new puppy. As you move these things out of your puppy's reach, remember it is only for a short time. Once your new puppy has learned her place in the family, you can put your things back where they go. Your life should never be dictated by your puppy. However, by removing these curiosity objects from the start, it will allow you to work with your puppy on the basic training she will need to learn.
It is important to understand that as much as you want your new puppy to be a part of your family, your puppy is still an animal. She will take her cues from her environment. If she is allowed to have free run of the home and access to everything, you are teaching her that she is in charge. Dogs have instincts. The main instinct of dogs is to live in a pack. Your new puppy will assume her new family is her pack. If she picks up the clues that she is her own boss and she can do what she wants, whenever she wants, she is being taught she is the leader of her pack. It is much easier on everyone, including the dog, if she learns from the moment she enters the home that she is not the leader and dictator of the family.
One mistake people make is letting their puppy sleep in a utility room, or kitchen. Dogs are from the wolf family, and really prefer to have a den all their own. Some people assume placing a dog in a crate is cruel. On the contrary, if crates are introduced properly, they will be much loved by the puppy. When planning for a new puppy, do not go out and buy the biggest crate you can find for your puppy thinking she will grow into it. This is the worst mistake owner's make. A crate should be large enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Puppies usually learn from their mothers to not soil in their bed area. If the crate is too large, your puppy may designate a portion of her crate for sleeping, and the other half for soiling. You should also never place your puppy's food and water in her crate.
When your puppy is first introduced to the crate, do not simply put her inside and lock the door. This will greatly disturb her. (You should place the crate in a room in your home where the family gathers. You should not expect the puppy to walk through the entire house to the back guest bedroom to nap. By having the crate in close proximity to the family, the puppy will feel as if she is still hanging out with her pack, even if she is inside her crate sleeping.) Place the crate where it will stay, and simply open the door. You can place a towel in the bottom, and a chew toy inside if you want. Some puppy's are very curious. They will simply walk inside. Others may be a little more shy with the crate. Give your puppy time to warm up to the crate. Once she does enter the crate, praise her. You may want to give her crate a name. When she enters the crate, you can repeat the crates name, and give her a treat.
After your puppy has warmed up to her crate and has entered and exited it a few times, you can close the door. She may whine and paw at the door. She may even start yelping and barking. This is okay. Do not let her out. After about ten minutes, you can open the door and pick her up. Walk her directly to the area designated for pottying. You should never let your puppy out of her crate and allow her to follow you through the house to go outside. Most puppies will simply squat and go where they please. Once you are outside, set her down. You would then encourage her to potty. Choose a couple of words such as, "Go potty," of "Do your business." She will not have a clue as to what you are saying, at first. But, after repeated attempts and with being given a puppy treat and praise, she will learn what those words mean. Most puppies will need to go out at least every hour during the first few days to familiarize them with their potty area. This is a chance for you to catch them doing their business where they need to. Lavish them with praise.
The first few nights may make you wonder why you even brought the puppy home. The repeated yelping and whining coming from the crate can seriously upset many adults who need their sleep. You should look at your new puppy as the baby in the family. Puppies less than four months of age may need to go out once during the night. When she does, pick up your pup and take her to her designated spot. After she has relieved herself, place her promptly back into the crate. You should never play with your puppy during the night time hours. This will only encourage her to keep the yelping up. After a few days, your puppy will adjust to the night time patterns of her "pack" and everyone will get more rest. Most dogs are able to make it through the entire night without a potty break around 18 weeks.
Some individuals may think it is harsh to scold a puppy. These individuals may be the same people who have a dog running wild in their home within a year. Dogs which aren't disciplined can wreck havoc on a home. You may return to find a shredded couch, chewed up shoes, and garbage strewn all over the place. If there are other pets in the home, you should also consider their feelings. They will most likely be intimidated by such a tyrant, and fights could commence while you are away.
If you catch your puppy chewing on something she shouldn't, a firm "no" is usually enough to stop her antics. As with other forms of training, this may take a few days for her to learn. This is why you were advised to move precious things away. Some people have a rolled up newspaper to swat the puppy with if they refuse to heed a "no." The rolled up newspaper does not hurt. It is simply loud, and it teaches the dog you are the alpha in the family, and not her. If she were truly in a dog pack, her alpha would nip her soundly. So, don't feel as if you are mistreating her. In fact, most puppies seem to feel more secure when they know their place.
The most important thing you can do with your puppy besides introducing a crate immediately, instilling a potty routine, and teaching her what "no" means, is to build the relationship with your new puppy. Get on the floor and play with her. The bond will grow between you and she will love you. This will make your puppy want to please you and be obedient as well. This goes a long way when you start teaching her other basic commands such as "stay" and "come."
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ian_White
Puppy Training that is Safe for Your Puppy
Puppy training can and should begin the day you bring your puppy home, but only if it’s approached in a safe manner for your puppy and his sensitivities. Housetraining your puppy can be a rewarding and non-stressful experience when you shape behavior from a series of positive experiences, instead of attempting to correct unwanted behaviors before your puppy has a chance to learn what you DO want.
Trying to teach your dog what NOT to do is not conducive to healthy, reliable learning. Your puppy must have the opportunity to learn the behaviors that you DO want which will be incompatible with behaviors that you don't want.
Never say, "No" or yell the word "Nooo!" if your dog doesn't understand something while training, and/or fails to perform on cue. Simply try the exercise again and if that doesn't work, go back to a previous step. Many times you will need to settle for rewarding just a partial behavior and work up in steps from there until the whole behavior is performed.
Here's an example. You catch your dog chewing your $90 shoes. By running over and screaming, “No!” you've done one of two things:
1. You've either rewarded him for chewing by giving him attention; this is especially true if you give chase while he’s running with your shoes; or
2. You've scared the bejeebers out of him and he learns that it's not safe to relieve stress and/or sore teeth and gums when you are present. Therefore he must do it when you're gone in order to keep himself safe and not upset you. The dog has no malice in these actions, he's just following instinct.
This applies to crate training as well, (if the crate is introduced and used appropriately), in that it can prevent accidents from happening during the housetraining process while repeatedly giving your puppy the opportunity to be successful at eliminating outdoors. His repeated success builds his confidence and instills in his mind that the outdoors is the only place to even consider eliminating.
This kind of housetraining is not based on fear, which inhibits the learning proccess but on repeated successes. This makes the desired behavior more reliable and the puppy more confident and able to learn.
Training your puppy using positive reinforcement and other healthy behavior shaping techniques insures that his puppy training will not negatively affect his personality. This type of healthy interaction with your puppy during his first year will enable you to build a cooperative bond and to have a well mannered but confident companion by the time he reaches maturity.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathleen_Amaro
Trying to teach your dog what NOT to do is not conducive to healthy, reliable learning. Your puppy must have the opportunity to learn the behaviors that you DO want which will be incompatible with behaviors that you don't want.
Never say, "No" or yell the word "Nooo!" if your dog doesn't understand something while training, and/or fails to perform on cue. Simply try the exercise again and if that doesn't work, go back to a previous step. Many times you will need to settle for rewarding just a partial behavior and work up in steps from there until the whole behavior is performed.
Here's an example. You catch your dog chewing your $90 shoes. By running over and screaming, “No!” you've done one of two things:
1. You've either rewarded him for chewing by giving him attention; this is especially true if you give chase while he’s running with your shoes; or
2. You've scared the bejeebers out of him and he learns that it's not safe to relieve stress and/or sore teeth and gums when you are present. Therefore he must do it when you're gone in order to keep himself safe and not upset you. The dog has no malice in these actions, he's just following instinct.
This applies to crate training as well, (if the crate is introduced and used appropriately), in that it can prevent accidents from happening during the housetraining process while repeatedly giving your puppy the opportunity to be successful at eliminating outdoors. His repeated success builds his confidence and instills in his mind that the outdoors is the only place to even consider eliminating.
This kind of housetraining is not based on fear, which inhibits the learning proccess but on repeated successes. This makes the desired behavior more reliable and the puppy more confident and able to learn.
Training your puppy using positive reinforcement and other healthy behavior shaping techniques insures that his puppy training will not negatively affect his personality. This type of healthy interaction with your puppy during his first year will enable you to build a cooperative bond and to have a well mannered but confident companion by the time he reaches maturity.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathleen_Amaro
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